30/05/2026
With the recent hot weather, my thoughts turned to straw hats in late medieval England.
Like today, straw hats seem to have been valued primarily for protection from the sun. They appear frequently in medieval calendars and Labours of the Months scenes, where both men and women wear them while working outdoors during the summer months. However, straw hats were not just practical workwear but could also be fashionable accessories. An example of this can be seen in the hat worn by Giovanni Arnolfini (Jan van Eyck's Arnolfini Wedding Portrait, 1434). This is a large, wide-brimmed hat made of plaited straw and dyed a deep black.
Customs records from 1480–81 indicate that an impressive 56,496 straw hats were imported through the port of London. In these records Antwerp and Bergen op Zoom are identified as important centres supplying the English market.
This volume of imports is perhaps surprising. Straw was plentiful, inexpensive, and widely available, so local production was almost certainly taking place as well.
The records also reveal considerable price variation. Some hats cost as little as 0.18–0.5 pence, while others reached 4.67 pence each, suggesting differences in quality, size, dyeing, or style.
Artwork from the 15th century shows an increasing variety of shapes and styles. Long-lived styles include simple round hats with brims and slightly domed forms, while the distinctive conical hats seen in earlier manuscripts such as the Maciejowski Bible seem to have fallen from fashion by the later Middle Ages.
Some hats appear to have been woven directly from straw, while others were made from braided straw strips sewn together to form the finished shape. Surviving examples are rare, but a straw hat from Kempten, Germany, dating to the 15th–16th century, provides valuable evidence of their construction. It was made from woven or braided strips layered and stitched together to create the final form.
Taken together, the documentary, artistic, and archaeological evidence paints a fascinating picture of the medieval straw hat: practical, widely traded, and sometimes surprisingly fashionable.
Images: Detail from the Mérode Altarpiece by Robert Campin (showing a straw hat with a black band), and a Book of Hours from the Morgan Library.