18/02/2025
This is the grave of proto-Real Bread Campaigner, Richard Smith, a chap so passionate about wholesome, stoneground flour, that he gained the nickname 'Stoney'.
In 1887, Stoney and miller Thomas Fitton registered Smith’s Patent Germ Flour, which was rebranded Hovis (from hominis vis, the Latin for strength of man) in 1890.
For many years, this wheatgerm-boosted flour was combined with just water, yeast and a small amount of salt by tens of thousands of skilled bakers across UK. They then left this dough to prove slowly over a number of hours, before hand-shaping and then baking it to produce ‘the little brown loaf’ to sell unpackaged or slipped into paper bags.
Today, Hovis is a private-equity-owned, industrial loaf fabrication brand, spewing out additive-laden, plastic-wrapped, Chorleywood Process UPF, from fully-automated production lines.
The company claims to churn out more than 100 million sliced-white loaves a year, manufactured from highly-refined, roller milled (as opposed to stoneground), low fibre flour. These are laced with soya flour, E282 (calcium propionate), E472e (diacetyl tartaric acid esters of mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids, aka DATEM), E471 (Mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids), E481 (sodium stearoyl lactylate) and E300 (ascorbic acid),
Even the 'little brown loaf' now contains: refined wheat flour (with added calcium, iron, niacin, thiamin), water, wheatgerm , wheat protein, yeast, salt, vinegar, palm and/or rapeseed oil, soya flour, barley flour, E472e, E282, barley fibre and E300.
‘As good today as it’s always been’? In what way? For health, skilled employment, local economies, the environment, rainforests…
Like the man himself, we reckon Stoney's dream is now (as a Cockney might say) brown bread.
(For more on this, head to our website and type ‘as good today’ in the search)
Photo by August-Schwerdfeger, CC-BY-4